Os produtos que contêm AHAs são comercializados para uma variedade de finalidades, tais como suavizar as linhas finas e as rugas superficiais, melhorar a textura e o tom da pele, desobstruir e limpar os poros e melhorar o estado da pele em geral. Por vezes, os AHAs são utilizados em cosméticos para outros fins, como por exemplo o ajuste do pH (o grau de acidez ou alcalinidade).
AHAs reportedly cause an acceleration of cell turnover in the stratum corneum by peeling away the dead skin cells on the skin surface, revealing fresh new skin cells underneath. Specially at high concentrations, some concern has been expressed that the removal of dead skin surface cells may adversely affect the barrier function of the stratum corneum. Impairment in skin barrier function may have consequences on the skin.
Due to this mechanism of action, and despite their widespread use, the concern of these ingredients lies with
- The maintenance of barrier function integrity of the skin including the effects on skin absorption of other cosmetic ingredients
- The effects of AHA on skin’s responses to UV exposure
- The evaluation of the safety of long-term use of AHA
The available data demonstrate that AHA ingredients can be dermal irritants. These data show an interdependence of concentration and pH. At a given pH, increasing the concentration increases irritation. At a given concentration, reducing the pH increases the irritation.
Taking each of these areas of concern into consideration (irritation, penetration enhancement, and sun sensitivity), it is considered that a limitation on both concentration and pH is appropriate for AHA ingredients.
However, even within those concentration, pH, and training constraints, it is possible to formulate in ways that would be inappropriate and, therefore, urged that products be formulated to limit irritation.
Furthermore, taking into regard the effects mentioned before, there are specific requirements for the labeling of cosmetic products containing these ingredients in order to inform and warn consumers.
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